The emotional game of cosmetics
Beauty advertising is designed to do more than show products; it taps into deep psychological needs like belonging, confidence and youth. An infamous marketing study urged brands to “concentrate media during prime vulnerability moments” when women feel least attractive—Monday mornings and times of stress[18]. The study suggested that when women are sick or crying they are more likely to buy, and recommended tailoring ads to exploit those moments[19].
This targeting crosses the line from persuasion to manipulation. University of Washington law professor Ryan Calo warns that digital technologies allow firms to discover and exploit individual vulnerabilities, triggering irrational purchases[20]. In other words, marketing doesn’t just show you lipstick; it algorithmically senses when you’re anxious and sells you a solution.
Recycling and reformulating
Have you ever noticed a product being discontinued only to see a similar “new” launch months later? Conglomerates routinely sunset products after acquisitions, then repackage or reformulate the same basic formulas under different brand names. This strategy saves on formulation costs, refreshes consumer excitement and justifies higher price points. Because the average markup on premium cosmetics is 78%[15], even minor tweaks can generate outsized profits.
Launching vs. acquiring: the business case
· Indie launch costs: Experts estimate a solid indie brand launch requires $100k–$500k in marketing spend[12]. For big companies, a single product launch with national advertising can cost $10–50 million.
· Acquisitions: By buying an established brand, companies obtain formulas, trademarks and an existing fan base. Coty’s $600 million purchase of a 51% stake in Kylie Cosmetics, then worth $177 million in revenue, is one example[11]. Estée Lauder’s $1.45 billion acquisition of Too Faced shows that the cost of buying sometimes beats years of R&D[10].
· Reformulation savings: After buying a brand, conglomerates often keep one or two hero products and quietly discontinue others, channeling sales into a few high‑margin items. They may also reuse base formulas across multiple brands, changing fragrances or packaging to create the illusion of novelty.
Marketing phrases to watch
Advertisers consistently deploy language that taps into fear, aspiration and belonging. Look for buzzwords like “anti‑aging,” “youthful glow,” “clean beauty,” “instant results,” “glass skin” and “limited edition.” These hooks often imply that buying a product will deliver confidence, social acceptance or happiness, even though the formula may be nearly identical to last season’s release.
Becoming a conscious consumer
- Recognize emotional triggers. If an ad appears when you’re feeling low, pause before purchasing. Ask yourself whether the product meets a real need or appeals to insecurity.
- Investigate brands. Check whether a product is truly new or part of a conglomerate’s portfolio. Look at ingredient lists and compare across brands.
- Support innovation. Seek out independent or science‑driven companies that invest in research rather than relying on repackaging. K‑Beauty brands, for instance, introduce new UV filters and skin‑barrier technologies at a faster rate than Western counterparts[3].
- Advocate for transparency. Vote with your wallet for companies that disclose their supply chains, R&D investments and board diversity.
Final thought
The beauty industry thrives on novelty, but much of that novelty is manufactured through psychological targeting and formula recycling. By understanding these tactics and their economic underpinnings, consumers can make informed decisions and redirect their spending toward brands that prioritize science, ethics and genuine innovation.
